Tretinoin is often called the “gold standard” of anti-aging skincare. From smoothing wrinkles to improving skin texture, it’s one of the most studied and effective topical retinoids available. But what about the delicate under-eye area? Can you safely use tretinoin under your eyes—or does the risk of irritation outweigh the rewards? Here’s what dermatologists want you to know.
Why the under-eye area is different
The skin beneath your eyes is the thinnest on your body—up to four times thinner than facial skin. It also has fewer oil glands, making it more prone to dryness and irritation. Because of this fragility, fine lines, puffiness, and dark circles tend to appear here first.
This sensitivity means the under-eye area can benefit from collagen-stimulating ingredients like tretinoin—but it’s also where side effects are most likely.
How tretinoin works on skin
Tretinoin (a prescription-strength vitamin A derivative) works by:
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Increasing cell turnover – encouraging fresh skin cells to replace old ones
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Stimulating collagen production – improving firmness and elasticity
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Smoothing texture and tone – reducing fine lines, pigmentation, and rough patches
In theory, these same benefits could help with crow’s feet, under-eye wrinkles, and dark circles—if used carefully.
What research says about under-eye use
Tretinoin Around the Eyes
Bhawan et al., 1991 (JAMA Dermatology)
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Large, double-blind trials (533 subjects) using 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.001% tretinoin.
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Included biopsies from the periorbital area.
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Findings: Increased epidermal thickness, healthier granular layer, reduced melanin, and overall improvement in photodamage—showing tretinoin has measurable biological activity around the eyes.
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2002 Review of Two Double-Blind Studies (0.02% tretinoin)
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Compared 0.02% tretinoin cream with placebo for facial photodamage.
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Findings: Improvements in fine wrinkles, texture, and pigmentation. While not under-eye–specific, results suggest lower strengths are effective and relevant for delicate skin like the eye area.
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4-Year Histologic Study
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27 patients, long-term use with facial biopsies.
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Findings: Reduced dermal elastosis, improved epidermal structure, no harm to skin cells. Suggests long-term use can safely improve skin quality, potentially including under-eye tissue.
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52-Week Pilot Study (0.02% tretinoin)
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19 patients with moderate–severe photodamage.
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Findings: Noticeable improvements in wrinkling, roughness, and pigmentation. Results align with benefits seen in other studies, supporting use in sensitive zones at lower concentrations.
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Tolerability: Safety and Side Effects
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JAAD 24-Month Study (0.05% tretinoin in darker skin types)
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Subjects Fitzpatrick IV–VI, treated nightly for 2 years.
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Findings: Overall well tolerated. Early irritation (peeling, stinging) was common but subsided over time. Suggests even higher concentrations can be used safely long term when monitored.
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General Patterns Across Studies
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Most irritation happens during the first weeks of treatment (redness, peeling, stinging).
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Lower concentrations (0.01–0.025%) are effective while minimizing side effects—especially important for under-eye use.
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Long-term studies show no significant adverse histological effects, supporting cautious, sustained use in sensitive areas.
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Overall takeaway: Evidence supports tretinoin’s effectiveness on fine lines and photodamage around the eyes, especially at lower concentrations (0.01–0.02%). Long-term use appears safe if introduced gradually and monitored for irritation.
Dermatologists’ recommendations
Most dermatologists recommend a “less is more” approach. General tips include:
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Start with the lowest concentration (0.01%–0.025%) before considering stronger formulas.
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Apply only to the orbital bone area (the bony rim under the eye). The cream naturally spreads, so avoid getting too close to the lash line.
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Limit frequency at first—try 2–3 nights per week, then increase if tolerated.
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Pair with a barrier cream or moisturizer to minimize dryness and flaking.
Common side effects under the eyes
Using tretinoin too aggressively can lead to:
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Redness and peeling
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Dryness and crepey texture
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Burning or stinging sensations
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Swelling or worsening dark circles
If irritation is persistent, it’s best to stop and consult your dermatologist.
Tips for minimizing irritation
If you and your dermatologist decide tretinoin is right for your under-eye area, these strategies can help:
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Patch test first on a small area before full use.
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Sandwich method: apply moisturizer first, then tretinoin, then another thin layer of moisturizer.
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Build slowly: once a week → every other night → nightly, if tolerated.
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Avoid other harsh products (like AHAs, BHAs, or benzoyl peroxide) near the eyes.
Who should avoid using tretinoin under the eyes
Some people should steer clear of this delicate-area use, including:
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Those with eczema, rosacea, or highly sensitive skin
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Anyone who’s had a recent eye procedure (e.g., LASIK, eyelid surgery)
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Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals (tretinoin is not considered safe)
Final thoughts: balancing results and safety
Yes—you can use tretinoin under your eyes, but with caution. When used carefully, it may soften fine lines and improve texture. But it’s also one of the easiest places to overdo it, leading to irritation that makes skin look worse instead of better.
The safest path? Consult a dermatologist before adding tretinoin under the eyes, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing eye conditions. With patience, the right concentration, and plenty of moisturizer, tretinoin could become a powerful ally in your anti-aging routine.
At Heally, our licensed clinicians can guide you through your Tretinoin journey. Schedule a free consultation today to get started.
Sources
- JAMA Dermatology: Effects of Tretinoin on Photodamaged Skin: A Histologic Study
- PubMed: Tretinoin cream 0.02% for the treatment of photodamaged facial skin: a review of 2 double-blind clinical studies
- Journal of Dermatological Science: Histologic evaluation of the long term effects of tretinoin on photodamaged skin
- PubMed: Safety and efficacy evaluation of tretinoin cream 0.02% for the reduction of photodamage: a pilot study
- Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology: Long-term safety and histopathologic changes following treatment of photodamaged facial skin with tretinoin emollient cream 0.05% in darkly pigmented subjects
Medical Disclaimer
This content is for educational purposes only and should not be taken as medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment recommendation. Information about prescriptions and therapies is provided for general understanding and may not apply to individual situations. Always consult a qualified healthcare provider before making decisions about testing, treatment, or lifestyle changes that could affect your health.
Important Note
FDA-approved medications and diagnostic tools discussed in this article have specific indications, dosing, and monitoring requirements. Off-label uses or unregulated supplements may carry additional safety, quality, and effectiveness risks. Never start, stop, or change any medical regimen without guidance from a licensed clinician who can consider your full medical history and current health status.